An
early nineteenth century American book peddler, itinerant preacher and
author, "Parson" Mason Locke
Weems is best known today as the
source of some of the most beloved if apocryphal stories about George
Washington. The famous story of George and the Cherry Tree is included in Weems'
masterpiece, The Life and Memorable
Actions of Washington, which was originally published in 1800 (the year
after Washington's death) and was an immediate best-seller.
Reprinted
in ever more inventive editions over the next twenty-five years, it contained,
according to historian Edward
Lengel, "some of the most beloved lies of American history, including the
famous cherry tree myth" and other exaggerated or invented anecdotes that
extolled Washington’s virtues and provided an entertaining and morally
instructive tale for the young republic.
In
telling his cherry tree story, Weems attributed it to "an aged lady,” who was
reportedly a distant relative of George, and who, as a young girl, supposedly
spent much time with him. This is how the fable unfolded:
"When
George," said she, "was about six years old, he was made the wealthy master of a
hatchet of which, like most little boys, he was immoderately fond, and was
constantly going about chopping everything that came in his way. One day, in the
garden, where he often amused himself hacking his mother's pea-sticks, he
unluckily tried the edge of his hatchet on the body of a beautiful young English
cherry-tree, which he barked so terribly, that I don't believe the tree ever got
the better of it.
The next
morning, [George’s father], finding out what had befallen his tree, which, by
the by, was a great favorite, came into the house, and with much warmth asked
for the mischievous author, declaring at the same time, that he would not have
taken five guineas for his tree.
Nobody could tell him anything about
it. Presently George and his hatchet made their appearance. "George," said his
father, "do you know who killed that beautiful little cherry-tree yonder in the
garden?" This was a tough question; and George staggered under it for a moment;
but quickly recovered himself: and looking at his father, with the sweet face of
youth brightened with the inexpressible charm of all-conquering truth, he
bravely cried out, "I can't tell a lie, Pa; you know I can't tell a lie. I did
cut it with my hatchet."
“Run to my arms, you dearest boy,” cried his
father in transports, “run to my arms; glad am I, George, that you killed my
tree; for you have paid me for it a thousand fold. Such an act of heroism in my
son, is more worth than a thousand trees, though blossomed with silver, and
their fruits of purest gold.”
Although
plausible enough, historians generally agree that this quaint story is almost
certainly not true. What is true, however, is that George was particularly fond
of cherries, and Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery contains several family “receipts” for
preserving this sweet and tangy highly versatile fruit.
Of
course, then, as today, sweet and sour cherries can be used in all kinds of
pies, tarts, jellies, jams, breads, muffins, and soups, as well as in a
fabulously wide array of cobblers, like this modernized dessert, which
George surely would have loved had he had time to try it during his
extraordinarily illustrious life:
Crust
1
1/4 cups flour
2
tablespoons sugar
2
tablespoons yellow cornmeal
1/2
teaspoon salt
6
tablespoons butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces and chilled
1
large egg yolk
3
tablespoons cold milk, cream or water
Filling
2
cups cherry preserves
1/3
cup sliced almonds
Confectioners'
sugar, for dusting
In
the workbowl of a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, cornmeal and salt.
Pulse to combine. Add the butter, toss carefully with your hands to coat the
butter cubes in flour. Pulse in the food processor several times until the
mixture resembles coarse oatmeal. Add the egg and 2 tablespoons of milk, cream
or water, and pulse until the dough begins to come together in a ball. Add the
additional tablespoon of liquid if needed until the dough comes together.
Transfer
the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead it briefly to shape it
into a disk about 5 inches across. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least 1
hour or overnight. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a
shape a ½ inch wider than the tart pan you are using. Loosely fold the dough in
half and transfer it to the tart pan.
Line
the pan with the dough, being careful not to stretch the dough. Trim any excess
dough from the rim of the pan, leaving a blunt neat edge. Gather the trimmings
into a ball (it should be about the size of a pingpong ball). Wrap the tart and
the ball of dough in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour and up to 2 days.
Heat
to 375 degrees. Remove the tart pan from the refrigerator, and spread the
marmalade evenly over the crust. Grate the chilled ball of pastry onto the
filling, and sprinkle the almonds over the top. Bake on a rack in the center of
the oven until the pastry is golden, the filling is bubbly and the almonds are
toasted, 40 to 50 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. When the tart is
completely cool, dust with confectioners' sugar. Serve at room temperature
FOOD
FACT: According to fruit experts at the University of Georgia, the sweet
cherry “originated in the area between the Black and Caspian seas of Asia Minor.
Birds may have carried it to Europe prior to human civilization. Cultivation
probably began with Greeks, and was perpetuated by Romans. Sweet cherries came
to the United States with English colonists in 1629 and were introduced to
California by Spanish Missionaries." In the early 1800s, sweet cherries were
moved west by pioneers and fur traders to their major sites of production in
Washington, Oregon, and California. And, today, more than 4.2 billion pounds of
sweet cherries are produced commercially each year!
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Wednesday, July 25, 2012
Monday, July 2, 2012
John Adams Gooseberry Fool
As a delegate to
the Second Continental Congress, John Adams was one of the fiercest advocates of
the Declaration
of Independence. Contrary to popular belief, the declaration wasn't signed
by all of the delegates on July 4, 1776. Instead, it was initially approved on July 2, 1776. The delegates then
continued debating and slightly revised it the following day and formally
adopted it on the fourth of July. Most historians agree that the Declaration
wasn’t signed by all the delegates (with a few holdouts) until nearly a month
later, on August 2, 1776.
Nevertheless, on July 3, 1776, John Adams wrote a letter to his wife Abigail in which he described these momentous events. This is what he wrote:
The second day of July, 1776, will be the most memorable epoch in the history of America. I am apt to believe that it will be celebrated by succeeding generations as the great anniversary festival...It ought to be solemnized with pomp and parade, with shows, games, sports, guns, bells, bonfires, and illuminations, from one end of this continent to the other, from this time forward forever more.
You will think me transported with Enthusiasm but I am not. -- I am well aware of the Toil and Blood and Treasure, that it will cost Us to maintain this Declaration, and support and defend these States. -- Yet through all the Gloom I can see the Rays of ravishing Light and Glory. I can see that the End is more than worth all the Means. And that Posterity will tryumph in that Days Transaction, even altho We should rue it, which I trust in God We shall not.
Although no one knows exactly what the delegates ate on those momentous days, it has been said that Adams was fond of Green Sea Turtle Soup, Indian Pudding and other foods of his New England youth. Gooseberry Fool, a traditional eighteenth century dish, was another Adam's family favorite. As an example of how national food preferences change over time, gooseberries were abundant in John's day but aren't widely available in the United States today.
So...if you can't find any gooseberries and don't have your own little patch, you can substitute blueberries or raspberries, whichever you prefer. Either way, this delicious and refreshingly sweet little treat would make a great addition to your Fourth of July festivities this week!
If you'd like to whip up a batch, here's a recipe to try from epicurious.com
3 cups pink or green gooseberries (or blueberries)
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup well-chilled heavy cream
1/4 cup crème fraîche
1/4 cup superfine granulated sugar
Pull off tops and tails of gooseberries and halve berries lengthwise. In a heavy skillet cook berries and granulated sugar over moderate heat, stirring occasionally until liquid is thickened, about 5 minutes. Simmer mixture, mashing with a fork to a coarse puree, 2 minutes more. Chill puree, covered, until cold, about 1 hour, and up to 1 day.
In a bowl with an electric mixer beat heavy cream with crème fraîche until it holds soft peaks. Add superfine sugar and beat until mixture just holds stiff peaks. Fold chilled puree into cream mixture until combined well. Fool may be made 3 hours ahead and chilled, covered.
Credit: Declaration of Independence, painting by John Trumball
Nevertheless, on July 3, 1776, John Adams wrote a letter to his wife Abigail in which he described these momentous events. This is what he wrote:
The second day of July, 1776, will be the most memorable epoch in the history of America. I am apt to believe that it will be celebrated by succeeding generations as the great anniversary festival...It ought to be solemnized with pomp and parade, with shows, games, sports, guns, bells, bonfires, and illuminations, from one end of this continent to the other, from this time forward forever more.
You will think me transported with Enthusiasm but I am not. -- I am well aware of the Toil and Blood and Treasure, that it will cost Us to maintain this Declaration, and support and defend these States. -- Yet through all the Gloom I can see the Rays of ravishing Light and Glory. I can see that the End is more than worth all the Means. And that Posterity will tryumph in that Days Transaction, even altho We should rue it, which I trust in God We shall not.
Although no one knows exactly what the delegates ate on those momentous days, it has been said that Adams was fond of Green Sea Turtle Soup, Indian Pudding and other foods of his New England youth. Gooseberry Fool, a traditional eighteenth century dish, was another Adam's family favorite. As an example of how national food preferences change over time, gooseberries were abundant in John's day but aren't widely available in the United States today.
So...if you can't find any gooseberries and don't have your own little patch, you can substitute blueberries or raspberries, whichever you prefer. Either way, this delicious and refreshingly sweet little treat would make a great addition to your Fourth of July festivities this week!
If you'd like to whip up a batch, here's a recipe to try from epicurious.com
3 cups pink or green gooseberries (or blueberries)
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup well-chilled heavy cream
1/4 cup crème fraîche
1/4 cup superfine granulated sugar
Pull off tops and tails of gooseberries and halve berries lengthwise. In a heavy skillet cook berries and granulated sugar over moderate heat, stirring occasionally until liquid is thickened, about 5 minutes. Simmer mixture, mashing with a fork to a coarse puree, 2 minutes more. Chill puree, covered, until cold, about 1 hour, and up to 1 day.
In a bowl with an electric mixer beat heavy cream with crème fraîche until it holds soft peaks. Add superfine sugar and beat until mixture just holds stiff peaks. Fold chilled puree into cream mixture until combined well. Fool may be made 3 hours ahead and chilled, covered.
Credit: Declaration of Independence, painting by John Trumball